“Life is really simple, but we insist on making it complicated.”
-Confucius
September/October, 2015 - No, it's not really a recognized nation. But every once in a while we will toss in a few Combo Countries! Depending on housing opportunities and available families, we extend or shrink our one-week stays in various places to best accommodate our meager budget and gracious hosts.
First Combo Country on the list: Nicarduras!
First Combo Country on the list: Nicarduras!
Photo Credit: Wikipedia We are highlighting two very distinct slices of Nicaragua. The first is the fantastically isolated and delightful twincano island of Ometepe in the waters of Lake Nicaragua.
Two volcanoes sprouted from the waves and now share a surface that hosts about 30,000 people on it's 18x7ish mile face. The ecology is fascinating (jaw-droppingly so) and the people are shy, even beautifully cautious (perhaps this timidity comes from literally living in the dual shadows of two disaster machines?).
Two volcanoes sprouted from the waves and now share a surface that hosts about 30,000 people on it's 18x7ish mile face. The ecology is fascinating (jaw-droppingly so) and the people are shy, even beautifully cautious (perhaps this timidity comes from literally living in the dual shadows of two disaster machines?).
The people have learned to live and love the unique land, here, and make the most of the evacuation-at-any-moment location.
Children here often run a store front, man the family fields, or manage the gathering of goods for their kin.
Daniel has described numerous times his summit of the island's peak, and I wasn't about to let the chance to attempt the same pass me by...
At the top of one of the lava-makers is a crater lake that Daniel dared to dip into, when he scaled the slopes in years past. I made it my mission to match that...
At the top of one of the lava-makers is a crater lake that Daniel dared to dip into, when he scaled the slopes in years past. I made it my mission to match that...
I met up with a couple Dutch travelers and set out to tackle the trail.
Having only just left the raw and rugged Costa Rican Corcovado (for those who missed that log entry, click here!) I felt like I had my trail legs well primed for the climb.
In actuality, I'm lucky to have had the chance to strengthen my stems before giving Ometepe a go.
This volcano takes WORK.
Similar to Corcovado, there aren't really paths; just steep, slimy, rain-slicked stones scattered (where you're lucky...) on the densely forested mountainside.
The way demanded strength, balance, care, skill, and no small amount of courage to scramble up cliffs and plow through unyielding jungle.
What was initially tall-standing trees then gorgeously gave way to convoluted, gnarly forms draped in moss a foot thick and fern fronds the size of my face...
This volcano takes WORK.
Similar to Corcovado, there aren't really paths; just steep, slimy, rain-slicked stones scattered (where you're lucky...) on the densely forested mountainside.
The way demanded strength, balance, care, skill, and no small amount of courage to scramble up cliffs and plow through unyielding jungle.
What was initially tall-standing trees then gorgeously gave way to convoluted, gnarly forms draped in moss a foot thick and fern fronds the size of my face...
EVERYTHING seemed to be covered in gorgeous, green stuff. The ascension took us into the cloud layers, and mists twirled in between the branches of the twisted trees. We pulled ourselves through mazes made of exposed tree roots and hauled ourselves over labyrinthine limbs growing in all directions at once.
It felt like some enchanted forest out of a fairy tale, with thrills and danger lurking in it's shrouded corners.
It felt like some enchanted forest out of a fairy tale, with thrills and danger lurking in it's shrouded corners.
It felt like some enchanted forest out of a fairy tale, with thrills and danger lurking in it's corners.
I've said it before, but, truly, I've never been more thoroughly amazed by a landscape...
I've said it before, but, truly, I've never been more thoroughly amazed by a landscape...
This ahead, this behind... What "trail?" Fog-shrouded heavens hovered above boughs whose bark darkly glistened beneath the shimmering, green curls of fernery and moss.
Rain-soaked soil sucked at the soles of our shoes (we saw several discarded pairs claimed by the terrain while we walked).
Rain-soaked soil sucked at the soles of our shoes (we saw several discarded pairs claimed by the terrain while we walked).
We wandered the woodlands without any indicators that we were approaching the lake except that we were continually walking UP.
Our view, when the canopy finally broke at near the summit.
Long story short, we never found the lake, but the scenery was more than enough to reimburse our efforts. And the discovery of a toad that would have trouble fitting on a full-sized dinner plate... Seriously.
 |  My "oh-my-goodness-we-are-SO-lost" face. |
Eventually the land turned downwards, and we found ourselves once again amongst upright trees and familiar grasses.
Leaving the island gave me the feeling that this was place worth returning to, especially considering that one of the world's "super-power's" plans to destroy this remarkable place and drill a new canal to compete with Panama (read this article, for more information). Yes, economic advantages may be made more available, but at what cost?
An entire population calls this Home.
This place is uniquely it's own, and irrefutably irreplaceable.
| As the ferry pulled away from the ramshackle dock and slowly (so slowly sometimes I almost thought we might be moving backwards) puttered towards the mainland, two US American business men crassly discussed their plans to overhaul the area, once commerce opened up. It was disappointing, especially with the people to be displaced sitting three feet away, unable to understand the conversation. I thought about how well-suited the people of Ometepe are for the land they live on. They've grown into the soils like the roots of the trees I had just squeezed through, and worked this place far harder and longer than I did to surmount the challenges of the island. |
Life is hard for them, but it rewards them richly, in ways that many others might not understand. I was grateful for the chance to see that, and a bit disappointed in myself for being so caught up in the details of my life that, when viewed from a volcano's peak, seem to matter very little.
In contrast with the lush and indigenous lake island, Granada is economically and historically one of the most important cities in Nicaragua. A colonial town, it boasts rich culture, classic architecture, and plenty of personality.
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Sadly, you can also sense the weight people carry from the burden of tourism. Unlike country folk, distance maintained between foreigners and locals that is created by mistrust and financial aim rather than coyness or respect.
Visitors from other countries rarely venture into this part of Granada, sticking to the safer streets of the lovelier downtown district where much celebrated colonial designs prevail.
Built, destroyed, then rebuilt again, this cathedral is the center piece for the Granada main square
Our stop here was primarily a transit point, but I'm glad we were gifted to glean an understanding of another section of the country that broadened our conception of Nicaragua and it's people.
Flash forward to Honduras, where we were shuttled through Tegucigalpa and then dropped our bags in the gorgeous countryside of the tiny town, Zambrano.
It was so refreshing to return back to the rural communities.
It was so refreshing to return back to the rural communities.
Here, our gratitude belongs to Jorge, our incredible, kind, loving, FABULOUS cook of a host who resides in truly the most beautiful home I've ever been in.
For me, Jorge's fantastical, Franciscan estate, Caserio Valuz (click for website) has come to signify an oasis of beauty and friendship in Honduras.
Owner Jorge has managed to create in his home a haven of lovliness and beautiful sentimentality. It's rare that a brick and mortar structure should take on an emotionality that transcends matter, but he has managed to do so. This place has a kind of magic about it, and I frequently found myself just staring at the authentically stunning decor and painstakingly immaculate architecture.
Owner Jorge has managed to create in his home a haven of lovliness and beautiful sentimentality. It's rare that a brick and mortar structure should take on an emotionality that transcends matter, but he has managed to do so. This place has a kind of magic about it, and I frequently found myself just staring at the authentically stunning decor and painstakingly immaculate architecture.
More than that, however, is the man who dreamed of and built this place. Jorge's embodiment of genuine care and authentic friendship are quality rarely seen, and they deserve to be appreciated.
This man arranged for us to explore the Honduran countryside, complete with intriguing history, stunning road-trips, and INCREDIBLE food (mostly concocted from his own counter-tops). What a remarkable place, what fantastic food, and what an amazing man...
A woman prays in the once-capital city of Comayagua.
Jorge: Like the sacredness you seek, you were a refuge in many ways, and a beacon of goodness for those of us who seek it. I'm so grateful to you and your example (although I know you humbly shrug at compliments... :) You're so special. I wish for you blessings and peace, and look forward to seeing and hugging you again (especially the hugging....).
Take good care until then, my friend. Pass along my sincerest regards to the older-than-his-age Antonio, for me. I miss you both.
Take good care until then, my friend. Pass along my sincerest regards to the older-than-his-age Antonio, for me. I miss you both.
It was with Jorge's magnetic personality that we were granted entry into the homes of the lovely local people. The families we visited were so patient with two gringo guys asking weird questions and fumbling basic Spanish, but we all made tortillas together, sampled freshly grown, ground, and brewed coffee, and talked about the honeybee business in the region.
 The kitchen of the Coffee Queen: Dona Serafina. We talked with Hondurans from ages five to eighty five about life and what makes it all worthwhile. One child (whom Daniel had actually met the last time he was in the country) when asked what he would do with a million dollars, responded that all he would do is "build a house for my family, and buy them a car. |  |
"And get myself a new bike," was his afterthought. He's eleven. When I was eleven, there would be a whole lot of indulgence and gluttony if I had be granted a million. Many people dream differently, here.
Hondurans and Nicaraguans gave me a new means to understand generosity and openness. I loved meeting with women who have seen the world age for eighty years, and discuss the future with children who don't yet know that they ARE the future.
 |  Humans everywhere have different eyes with which to see the world, different minds with which to interpret what they see. The lives these people lead are so very different from the one that I recently left. |
Where mine was so complicated and superficial and driven by social pressures, these folks are driven by their families' basic needs, and work together to keep their villages from falling to poor crop seasons or bad business deals. Sure, they have their share of squabbles and silly social stigmas, but there's a simplicity here that breathes like the mountain air the village rests within.
Explore the world. Make it better.
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LOVE it? Visit Daniel's store here!
There is more to see than a post has room for!
Click the links and take a gander at our internal gallery or Instagram account!
LOVE it? Visit Daniel's store here!
So... Where are we now????