"If we cannot now end our differences, at least we can help make the world safe for diversity."
- John F Kennedy, United States President
Before anything else, we have a promotional video for you to see! Made by the amazing James Cashman. Thank you!
Take three minutes to take a quick look at the fund raising site for our mission!
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU!
Love and cross-country hugs,
T&D
Take three minutes to take a quick look at the fund raising site for our mission!
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU!
Love and cross-country hugs,
T&D
October, 2015 - At this junction in Central America (namely our Honduran exodus) our planned hosts sadly went silent in El Salvador. While we were able to reach them later on, our lacking accommodations at the time (and even greater lacking in funding) left us only cruising through the small, coastal nation to avoid room renting.
What a pity, because so many aspects of it were so intriguing to me.
It was a such a highly-charged and zany place, flowing with a barely harmonized pace and chaotic rhythm that it seemed really to fall to pieces any minute.
Most of the buildings seemed as quick to crumble as everything else.
We stopped in the capital for a few hours, exploring parts of downtown and grabbing local eats.
It was a such a highly-charged and zany place, flowing with a barely harmonized pace and chaotic rhythm that it seemed really to fall to pieces any minute.
Most of the buildings seemed as quick to crumble as everything else.
We stopped in the capital for a few hours, exploring parts of downtown and grabbing local eats.
But as we rushed back to the bus station, pupusas in hand, it became apparent that these people have found a kind of strange functionality in what at first glance looked a bit like madness.
The self-servedness of the individual adds to the odd, semi-functional system of the city.
I wanted to explore more, and I imagine this is what many Asian cities will be like, especially India.
I guess I'll have to stave my fix and wait for Mumbai!
The self-servedness of the individual adds to the odd, semi-functional system of the city.
I wanted to explore more, and I imagine this is what many Asian cities will be like, especially India.
I guess I'll have to stave my fix and wait for Mumbai!
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As we left El Salvador and entered Guatemala City, I noticed how surprisingly sparkly and developed it was. The sometimes cosmopolitan air meant that our eventual introduction to Antigua's World Heritage status (including textbook examples of barroco antigueño architectural style) was in stark contrast to the shining skyscrapers and shimmering shopping malls we would leave behind.
Calle Uno, in downtown Antigua
Antigua is adorably nestled in a fertile valley bed between hills and volcanoes, which is actually a bit earthquake prone (although the barroco antigueño structures are designed to be resistant to the rumblings). The geographic location combined with the protected cultural architecture makes the city a terribly popular foreigner destination. It's tourist-saturated, which tarnishes the authenticity a bit and sometimes turns the town into a theme park, but it's worthwhile nonetheless, especially at night when the the sky turns to dark velvet and the streets illuminate with lights and shops and jovially night-shrouded, laughing faces.
Antigua at dawn
We didn't have a host family right away, but did have a few leads. As such, we shacked up in a hostel to wait (NOT my first choice of housing, particularly when I'm just sure that somewhere there's is a beautiful, local family who would love to share stories with two travelers)... but our generous Hostel owner (also a couchsurfer) did donate a free night for our cause. Muchas gracias to the Three Monkeys Hostel!
In the meantime, a cheap hostel can also come with perks. One of these advantages took the form of an isolated roof terrace, which granted a quiet, cozy sit-down and lovely view of the techo-topped town with white-washed steeples on each home, back dropped by the green mountains beyond.
In the meantime, a cheap hostel can also come with perks. One of these advantages took the form of an isolated roof terrace, which granted a quiet, cozy sit-down and lovely view of the techo-topped town with white-washed steeples on each home, back dropped by the green mountains beyond.
 |  Raindrop! I named our feline friend (still aloof, even after padding across sun-exposed corrugated house tops (aka, she's a cat on a hot, tin roof!)) |
Daniel and I would head up to the top story and escape the party-centric lifestyles of fellow hostelers. We would munch our artisan pastries from the panaderia down the road and sip honey-sweet teas with the neighborhood kitty (whom I named Raindrop) while sun-soaking, talking logistics for the expedition, and generally taking in the historic views.
While up there, we wound up having a few unexpected lessons on communication, something that I thought I had a certain amount of skill in. Turns out, people are different, how we think and express ourselves is different. Wait, WHAT?!?!? "No way," you say????????
Anyway, we spent time working out priorities and giving each other (and ourselves) the chance to be heard and to listen to what is important for the other, for ourselves, and for the expedition. It was uncomfortable, at times, to work out kinks and sacrifice your dignity for mutual understanding, but I think we were able to both find opportunities to learn and grow and be a little better for each other.
While up there, we wound up having a few unexpected lessons on communication, something that I thought I had a certain amount of skill in. Turns out, people are different, how we think and express ourselves is different. Wait, WHAT?!?!? "No way," you say????????
Anyway, we spent time working out priorities and giving each other (and ourselves) the chance to be heard and to listen to what is important for the other, for ourselves, and for the expedition. It was uncomfortable, at times, to work out kinks and sacrifice your dignity for mutual understanding, but I think we were able to both find opportunities to learn and grow and be a little better for each other.
 ULTRA gooey and simply sweet cinnamon rolls... |  Pretty pasties filled store front windows |
I also learned a fantastic Spanish verb: Callejoniendo. It means "meandering small streets and alleyways." I love that there is a word out there describing one of my favorite activities!
There were definitely a few notables to be witnessed while we were "callejonieno." Buildings are held to a certain code to outline how they appear, helping to preserve the World Heritage standards and keep some history intact.
The walls were almost always painted in bright, bold colors. I happened upon a wall where the chipped layers exposed the various chromatic preferences of owners past.
There were definitely a few notables to be witnessed while we were "callejonieno." Buildings are held to a certain code to outline how they appear, helping to preserve the World Heritage standards and keep some history intact.
The walls were almost always painted in bright, bold colors. I happened upon a wall where the chipped layers exposed the various chromatic preferences of owners past.
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I positively ADORED the small details found on every cobble-stoned street, especially the myriad of door knockers fixed to ancient wood front doors, each wearing the age of passing years.
The city seems determined to be admired.
The city seems determined to be admired.
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One early morning (early enough that Daniel wasn't sure he wanted to up-n-at-em at the hour) we summited one of the surrounding slopes to watch the dawn break over the valley. An impressive, stone crucifix adorns the hillside and watches the city sleep, while the great wrinkles of the mountain's feet housed the homes of hill-dwellers.
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The walk back from the viewpoint revealed a couple of old ladies along the side of the road. One woman seemed pleasant enough, but the other looked like she really had something to be upset about!
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By the end of our stay, we wound up incredibly fortunate in finding a family to interview. A friend of Daniel's introduced us to wonderful, remarkable family in the residential district of town.
The three children were so insightful and wise, providing astute and well-rounded responses to questions about life and purpose and priorities. Living in a town so entrenched in tourism, steeping in international visitors, has given them opportunities to expand their worldviews, and to cultivate perspective and clarity. Where most families in Central America we met with had dreams that rarely left their geographic region, these kids had dreams of the world, in art and philanthropy. Their ideologies on respect and kindness and gratitude were inspiring.
The three children were so insightful and wise, providing astute and well-rounded responses to questions about life and purpose and priorities. Living in a town so entrenched in tourism, steeping in international visitors, has given them opportunities to expand their worldviews, and to cultivate perspective and clarity. Where most families in Central America we met with had dreams that rarely left their geographic region, these kids had dreams of the world, in art and philanthropy. Their ideologies on respect and kindness and gratitude were inspiring.
 The many pillars of Antigua |   |
At the end of our conversation, Gabi displayed her passion for modern and classic dance through a performance in her "practice room" (a concrete courtyard outside her house, smaller than a bedroom, where gritty cement tore at the delicate fibers of her tattered ballerina flats and scratched her 16 year-old skin when she twirled and acrobatically tumbled). Her brother, 14 year-old Miguel, has been working on an artistic, painted cloth for a Christmas display (one of his favorite holidays) that he's looking forward to using as a decorative centerpiece. And little Sofi just twittered adorably...
I was so grateful to have had the chance to spend that time with them. We all seemed continually enabled and open to exchanging and influencing each other, it felt so gratifying and rewarding.
Once we left Antigua, we started making our way to the next country, Belize, and decided it was worthwhile to explore a few other sites on our way out to deepen our appreciation for Guatemalan culture and ecology.
Once we left Antigua, we started making our way to the next country, Belize, and decided it was worthwhile to explore a few other sites on our way out to deepen our appreciation for Guatemalan culture and ecology.
Semuc Chamey's stunningly serene waterways
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The first was Semuc Champey, a stunning river and waterfall destination in the middle of the northern rain forests.
  We rode in a truck bed through the towns of several indigenous people, many beautifully clothed and not speaking Spanish or English. We learned that many locals had recently rallied together to oust the governmental hold on Semuc Champey's as a park, feeling entitled to manage things on their own. They did so, according to their values and seeing proceeds from the site fall into the hands of the people, rather than the government.   |
They didn't even require a entry fee, and merely requested a donation to support their liberty. They had sale stands outside the entrance to offer food and goods, and had a few men posted throughout the park to make sure the location was respected. It seemed well-conceived and effectively run. I especially appreciated seeing so many native faces enjoying the waters making use of the natural scape along with paler travelers.
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Daniel and I also found a nice, shady spot to plop our feet in the water and let the small fish and coolly refreshing river do their business... After hard travel for weeks on end, they could really use some attention! The fish nibble at the dead skin (there was plenty to gobble down) and tickled our toes while we relaxed in the waterside glade.
Many young, indigenous boys splashed freely and wrestled jovially in waters that once only saw tourist attendees. One in particular was preciously shy, and a little afraid to swim. He was my favorite....
Our leave-taking from the national park lead us through more indigenous villages and Guatemalan highlands. They were beautiful, both the densely misted mountains and the faces of those who call them home.
Belize was such a treat... An interesting and enjoyable departure from traditional, Central American culture (Belize is like a Caribbean island that decided to go coastal) and it was the home of a family we met with and interviewed who owns a conch diving business. For weeks at a time, these men are unceasingly out at sea, free-diving to high-pressure depths and hand-grabbing the nautical shells from the sea bed as their cash crop.
The crew is run by the patriarch, a 72 year-old legend who still outperforms his younger proteges.
The crew is run by the patriarch, a 72 year-old legend who still outperforms his younger proteges.
We were fortunate enough to have explored the surrounding waters, facing a full-grown moray eel, sting rays, and sharks. Swimming through the now-coraled remains of a shipwreck and peeking into underwater caves had me feeling like the l was the little merman.
As we prepared for departure from Belize and entry into Mexico, there are just so many things to be so grateful for, here. So many people to thank and wonders to see: Juan Manuel, Rosamari, Gabi, Miguel, Sofi, Jeff & Debi Millet, David, Kathy and Char, all of whom were instrumental in our success thus far.
It can be so frightfully difficult, at times, for so many reasons. Even so, troubles, challenges, and pains aside, we plan to make it worthwhile for more than just ourselves.
It can be so frightfully difficult, at times, for so many reasons. Even so, troubles, challenges, and pains aside, we plan to make it worthwhile for more than just ourselves.
Explore the world. Make it better.
Like the photography?
There is more to see than a post has room for!
Click the links and take a gander at our internal gallery or Instagram account!
LOVE it? Visit Daniel's store here!
There is more to see than a post has room for!
Click the links and take a gander at our internal gallery or Instagram account!
LOVE it? Visit Daniel's store here!
So... Where are we now????